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We thought to
simplify things, your starting point should be Hull. Take Highway 148 towards Shawville.
First, you will enter the municipality of Pontiac which includes Quyon and
Luskville. You
will be driving on the road between the Ottawa River and tall cliffs, called the Eardley
Escarpment, which marks the beginning of the Laurentian mountains. Next, you will pass
through the municipalities of Bristol and Clarendon. The scenery changes as you enter a
plain covered with forests, prairies and rivers. A little after Quyon, at the Wyman
intersection, you can see a small cabana made of logs where you will find a tourist
information center. You have just entered the Pontiac. Here you can stop to
rest. You are
now a couple of hundred meters from the beginning of the Cyclopark
PPJ.
If you continue on Highway 148, you will quickly arrive in Shawville,
and you can either go to the Town Hall on 350 Main St., Shawville; Phone (819) 648-2869,
or to the tourist information center (Centennial Park, Highway 148)
The first pioneers of the region were Irish Protestants, from Tipperary
County, who immigrated to Canada after the Napoleonic Wars, in 1815.
In 1821, Thomas Hodgins, John Dale and his wife Elizabeth, who were
originally from Carleton, left to find new lands to colonize. They went up the Ottawa
River in canoe and landed in a small bay. The men then left towards the north to find a
favourable place for settling. For two days, they had to encounter thick
fog, insects, and
swamps before they arrived at a clearing where they could build their farms. Many more
families from Carleton joined them. Businesses were established to provide services to the
growing agriculture community of the pioneer population. This area was known under the
name of Clarendon Center. In 1840, Clarendon Center became a little prosperous little
village. On January 12, 1873, a new municipality was proclaimed. It was named Shawville,
in honour of the Shaws, the most influential and prosperous family in the village.
In the touristic history of Shawville, the walking tours began in 1995.
These tours let you discover the historic sites of the village using the signs and the
brochure which you can get at the information kiosk. The tour begins at the Shawville
train station. The track you see today has been transformed into a bike trail but at the
beginning of the century, it was where most supplies of the town were. During the winter
of 1886, it was the arrival of the Pontiac Pacific Junction railroad that caused the
biggest celebration in all the town's history. On Victoria Avenue, we find the two oldest
hospitals of Shawville. On the corner of Lang St., we find the early house of Dr. Powell,
which he opened as a hospital in 1920. The big house on the north side of the
road was also used as a hospital between the years of 1938 and 1946. The end of the home
care services must have happened at the time of the opening of the Pontiac Community
Hospital. To the east, you can see the Exhibition ground, home of the most important
annual event of the Pontiac : The Shawville Fair. The farmers had met in 1856 to found the
Agricultural Society of the Pontiac. The fair continues to grow each year with more than
30 000 visitors during the Labour Day weekend. A short walk brings us to Mill Dam Park
where, in 1858, James Hodgins built a grain and saw mill. For 40 years, that mill served
the town, until one autumn night in 1896, a fire burnt it down. We can still see the ruins
of the mill by the picnic tables and the game area. It was during the first busy decade
after the arrival of the railway that the Main Street got its present
appearance. With the
prosperity of this era, new buildings were erected, like the G.F. Hodgins, now known as
the Stedman Store. The W.A. Hodgins, on Main St., has been in the same family for 150
years now. Two grand Victorian hotels, the Pontiac House and the Russell House, were
fierce competitors on Main St., but unfortunately, they became the victims of a
fire. In general, the commercial core has retained the good appearance and the social climate that
animated it 100 years ago.
The first meetings of the Clarendon Council were held at the tavern
belonging to Robin McDowell, on the west side of the village. Since they were refreshing
themselves with McDowell's strong drinks, the counselors often found themselves in
situations where there was some lack of decorum. The district then decided that the
situation would probably get better if they built a town hall a good mile east of the
tavern. The room was situated where we now find the Memorial Park, and it served its
purpose admirably for a couple decades. The actual Town Hall was built in 1927 to serve as
a post office and a federal building. The building was given to the town just in time to
celebrate its centennial in 1973.
Established in the old PPJ train station, the museum of the Pontiac
invites you to learn about the past of this region. There you will find an old classroom
from the beginning of the century, a general store, agricultural machinery, domestic
appliances, and diverse objects and clothes of a bygone era.
Take Highway 148 east, and after Bryson turn on your right to take
Highway 303, which will take you straight to Portage-du-Fort.
The origin of the name Portage-du-Fort in uncertain because we are not
sure if there was a fort in that area. They say that the name came from the fact that
people had to portage in that area so that they could get to the Fort of Coulonge, of that
the portage at that area had to be done by a strong man.
While strolling through the streets of Portage-du-Fort, it would
probably be hard for you to imagine the prosperity of this village during the last
century, when the steam boats stopped at the docks.
Furs, then wood and stone had enriched the town. It was, for a long
time, the principal commercial center of the region. Flour mills, saw mills,
quarries,
everything led to making this town, the centre of the Pontiac. Commerce and the
transportation of passengers and goods was done by the river, using the graceful and
majestic steamboat. The arrival of the railway, in 1887, was the bell tolling the
end of the development of the town. The line bypassed Portage-du-Fort and favoured the
creation of a new direction for transportation, in which Shawville was the center. In
1914, the injustice to the town was repaid. The arrival of the Northern
Canadian, which
installed a railway near the town, led to a new economic beginning.
Unfortunately, a
terrible fire destroyed 80% of the town in May of 1914. Some stone houses survived the
fire because of the thickness of their walls, like the Usborne House, for
example. You can
admire the Usborne Depot, the Town Hall, the catholic and protestant
churches, as well as
the Usborne, Fox, and Purvis homes. The Reid home, also known as the " Château
Pontiac " (Pontiac Castle), will certainly impress you. The grey limestone on
these buildings add to the particular style of the village. You can cross the river on the
set of dams that were installed over the great rapids that are responsible for the town's
existence. The view is magnificent. The visual mixture of rocks, bubbling
water, and
coniferous trees is absolutely splendid.
If you want to observe the " Grande
Rivière " (Big River), and discover a zone of cottages, and
beaches, head
towards to Bristol’s promenade-wharf.
Under the tall trees, you will find a small village made up of
practically only secondary residences. Flowers, squirrels, picnic tables and beaches with
fine sand are waiting for you. Bristol is also an excellent place to fish the
" Maskinongé " (Musky), a big pike that can measure up to more than
60ins. Usually, that kind of big fish is caught near the docks.
Return to Shawville and take Highway 303.
The village of Ladysmith was built by German immigrants that came to
settle here at the turn of the century. Proud of their origin, the descendants still
celebrate the traditional German feast called Oktoberfest, which happens every year at the
beginning of October.
Take Fierobin Road.
The Cushing Lodge center for birds of prey is located at 197 Fierobin
Rd, in Ladysmith. Phone (819) 647-3226. You can observe the birds of prey in their natural
habitat. Situated in the mountains, close to a clear lake, the owners of the
Center offer
you guided tours by reservations only. You can see some owls, buzzards,
snow- owls and
bald eagles, etc.
Go back towards Otter Lake.
Founded because of the forest industry, Otter Lake became an important
tourist center. Numerous clear water lakes, like Hughes, Leslie, Clarke, McCuaig and
Otter, filled with fish are bordered by hundreds of cottages. Beaches and campsites are
waiting for tourists. There they find peace and tranquility, and that this universe of
lakes and forests has been preserved from every environmental catastrophe. During the
winter months, this region becomes the largest deeryard of the Pontiac. As you leave Otter
Lake, on your left is a road that leads to the Belle Terre Garden, an important stop for
all botanical amateurs. Here, you will find a tea-room, a Bed & Breakfast, most
importantly, a garden center and flower-filled paths. You can buy plants and take
gardening lessons.
Follow Highway 301 towards Campbell's Bay.
The forest industry and agriculture is what brought the pioneers to
this region. The village was named after Lieutenant Donald Campbell, a soldier in the
Scottish regiment, who had received an important quantity of land.
The first school, Flood School, was built in 1863, near the Protestant
cemetery. The Catholic mission was erected in 1919, and the new church was finished in
1939.
The court-house was built in 1926-27. Located in the center
of the
Pontiac, Campbell's Bay became the seat of the county in 1926. The main street has a
peculiar arrangement. All the buildings of Front St. are situated only on one side of the
road, which gives the people a wonderful view on the Ottawa River.
The members of the regional municipal Council meet every month in the
building situated at the intersection of the highways 148 and 301. In this building, you
can also find the Driver & Vehicle Licensing Office and also diverse agencies for
economic development.
At the turn of the century, Campbell's Bay was an affluent village.
There were a train station, a general store, a post office, a barber shop, a butcher shop,
a bakery, a clothes store, a second-hand store, a hardware store, a saddler, a blacksmith
and some hotels.
The next couple decades, saw the installation of banks, a court-house
and saw mills. Most of the commercial and administrative buildings were built on
main street and only on one side of the road. The other side of the road stayed empty so
there is a view on the lower part of the village and the Grand Calumet Island. Over the
years, the road kept its commercial vocation and a close resemblance to what it was in the
past, if except for the disappearance of the railway and the train station.
The first court-house was built in Bryson in 1891. A great fire
destroyed it and most of Bryson in 1914. The new court-house was erected in Campbell's Bay
in 1917, to serve the Pontiac. The prison that was built in the back was closed in 1970,
and demolished in 1990.
Only one hanging took place, of Michael Bradley. He was condemned in
1935 for the murder of five members of his family.
This building, with its imposing architecture, its
woodwork, and its
white pillars is open to the public, reservation required , from Monday to
Friday, 8:30am
to 4:30pm.
The district of the Pontiac still has an active sheriff, who is named
by the Minister of Justice.
Going out of Campbell's Bay, at the Pk 36.6, a small road goes down
towards Campbell's Lake. You will find a place that is like a paradise. The small lake
communicates with the river. You can see some islands, bays coloured by aquatic plants
with multi-coloured flowers and also water that is as clear as crystal. Everything is
there to charm the most jaded person.
Take Highway 148 towards the east.
You will pass through the municipality of Bryson, where the port was
once an important stage for the loggers. The powerful rapids that had once frightened
Champlain and many generations of woodsmen and explorers, were equipped with a wooden
slide for the timber so that it could easily be carried down. Here you will find many
motels and rafting groups will let you discover the rapids safely.
From Bryson, there's a bridge that takes you to Grand Calumet Island.
The name comes from a rock that is found in abundance on the island, and it once served to
make the Calumets. Traditionally, the Natives get together to smoke the Calumet as a sign
of peace. The Island was the home of the well known Quebec legend Cadieux, the woodsman. You can stop
at the Rocher Fendu Park to pitch a tent, to swim, and most importantly, to admire the
beauty of the river with its turbulent waters and the dozens of islands that makes up this
untamed and wonderful place.
Take Highway 148 towards Fort Coulonge. As you leave Campbell's
Bay,
you will see on your left, a rest area.
From here you will have a sensational view of the agricultural plain
and of the mountains that mark the beginning of the wild land to the
North.
Continuing on Highway 148 in a westerly direction, Vinton and then Fort
Coulonge await you.
Located on a small hillside, rich plain where cattle breeding is the
main industry, Vinton is adorned with a magnificent gothic style church called St.
Elizabeth. It was built in 1877, destroyed by a fire on the Easter morning of 1896, but
rebuilt right after. It can only be visited with a reservation, phone (819) 648-3879. In
front of the church, there is McCrank's general store which has faithfully served its
clients since 1830 in a building made out of square logs. The Vinton plain is
crisscrossed with gravel roads that give views of beautiful scenery of the river
and Grand Calumet Island. The surrounding prairies are mostly used for old fashioned
cattle breeding. The calves are raised by their mothers and they make the best meat that
you can find nowadays. Horses are also raised here. On some fences, we can see
swallows’ nests. If we leave them alone to reproduce, we can control insects without
using pesticides.
Fort Coulonge is here thanks to Nicolas d’Ailleboust, also known
as Sir Coulonge, who spent the winter of 1694-95 close to the mouth of the river that he
baptized in his name. He established one of the first colonies by the Ottawa River, and a
trading post that was prosperous for more than a century and a half. This was the
beginning of the actual town. The trading of furs was replaced by the forest industry
which is still the main economic trade of the region.
With the arrival of George Bryson in 1825, that Fort Coulonge entered a
period of prosperity. While walking through the streets of the village, you can see what
remains of the past riches. Start your visit with St Pierre's Catholic Church, on Baume
St. You will be able to admire the original Stations of the Cross, as well as detailed
frescos and sculptures. Then turn to the right onto Principal St., and you will see the
magnificent stone houses of the Bryson family which were built at the end of the 19th
century. Generations of George Bryson's descendants successful, lived in those houses.
Recently, one of them was transformed into the Spruceholme Inn, where you can stop to rest
for the night. You can also visit this ancient home for free. You will discover authentic
furniture, artwork and books that belonged to the Bryson family. Further on, St. Andrew's
Presbyterian Church, built in 1890, is distinguished by the simplicity and purity of its
adornment, by its copper roof and its sculpted wooden doors. If you keep on going on the
"Chemin du Pont-Rouge " (Red Bridge Road), you will find on your left
the second longest covered bridge in the province, the Marchand bridge. Further on, on
Highway 148, you will see the Bryson House.
It has to be the most beautiful covered bridge in Quebec. It was built
in 1898 by Augustus Brown of Beachburg. It replaces two older bridges that were in the
same place on the Coulonge River. The two bridges were the link between the lumberjack's
camp and the village of Fort Coulonge. Held up by six wooden pillars, it measures about
129 meters. Its the second longest bridge in Quebec. Built entirely out of pine, this
"one way" bridge was covered so that it wouldn't rot. The bridge is still in
service and adds to the picturesque charm of the river.
The Bryson House was built in 1854 by George Bryson (1813-1900), who
was a Scottish farmer and wood merchant, Mayor of Mansfield, Prefect of the Pontiac
Council and legislative counselor, and also one of the pioneers of the Pontiac Valley.
This house is unique in style and resembles he Scottish houses built by the wood merchants
between the years of 1800-1830 in the upper and lower parts of Canada. A group of
buildings, all attached to the main house and placed around the courtyard, included a
building for the blacksmith, one for the ice, the stables, the outhouse and the buildings
to store food. The stone house located to the south of these buildings was built around
1845 and was used as an office for the Bryson company. George Bryson, a smart business
man, decided to exploit a farm by the Coulonge River to complement his forest
industry. The products of the farm were used for the stocking of his lumberyard pantry. It
was from there that George Bryson and his team dominated the economic activity of the
Pontiac region of the 19th century and directed the development into the 20th
century. The Bryson family were the owners of the whole compound until 1943. It was
renovated in 1982. Today, the place belongs to the municipality of Mansfield and we can
find, among other things, the municipal Library. The little grey house, set amongst
with
the other buildings, was erected in 1845. It was used as a office for the Bryson society.
On Highway 148, towards Davidson, you will easily find some blue
tourist signs that indicate the way to the Coulonge Falls. The three falls total 48
meters in drop and the canyon that extends between them is over 1000 meters long. The tour guides
will help you discover the history of the Coulonge Falls, the walking paths through
nature, its look-out points that offer spectacular views, and the two bridges that go over
the turbulent falls. A picnic area is also available. In 1840, George Bryson built a log
slide over the Great Falls, but today, there are only some pictures of it.
Continue on Highway 148 towards the west.
The village of Waltham was the terminus of the PPJ railway, and later
on, of the Canadian Pacific. Built in 1887, the railway offered direct transportation
between the Pontiac and Ottawa. The train arrived in Waltham in the evening and left for
Ottawa the next morning. The railway was very important for the region. It not only
created jobs, but it also was used to carry passengers, mail and cargo. The company
stopped serving the Pontiac in 1959, but the people still have many good memories of the
railway. In Waltham, you will find a restaurant, a corner store, lodging, and a canoe
rental place so that you can discover the river.
This station is considered to be the oldest private commercial
hydro-electric station in North America. It is situated at the mouth of the Black River.
The property of Hydro-Pontiac, it gives electricity to the neighbouring villages as well
as to the town of Pembroke. The station has been doing this since the beginning of the
century, or more precisely, since 1918! It is open for visitors all year round, with a
reserve by calling (819)689-5226.
To reach Chapeau, you will have to turn left on old Highway 8.
When you arrive in the village, turn to your left and cross the bridge.
You will find a church on St. James Street. That will please architectural and art
enthusiasts. St-Alphonse-de-Liguori Church is so magnificent that even the most
unaesthetic person will be amazed. The church has the famous Casavant organ, beautiful
stained-glasses windows, elegant sculptures and a sculpted apostolic see, imported from
France, a replica of the one at the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris. The Church was built to
be the cathedral to the new diocese, but it never was. The church can be visited every day
from 8 :00am to 7:30pm.
Go back across the Chapeau bridge, and turn left towards Chichester.
Then go in the direction of Nicabeau by taking the path with the same name.
Thirteen kilometers away from Chapeau, the village of Nicabeau defies
time with its wooden houses that are whitened with limestone. A century ago, they were
built by the forest industry and were placed symmetrically along one road. They are still
in very good condition today, except that a tornado has destroyed a couple of them.
To go to Fort William, go to Sheenboro, and then Perreault Road.
Fort William is a historical site. It was a trading post built by the
Hudson's Bay Company in 1829. It played an important role in the fur industry. At the time
of the establishment of the post office in 1848, Allumettes Lake became Fort William
in memory of William McGillvery, the first postmaster. Today, we can still see the
postman's house, the blacksmith's workshop and the church. The Hudson's Bay Company
stopped its activities in Fort William in 1869. Now, the area is known for the beauty of
its beaches.
On the return journey, you can discover the small village of Sheenboro,
which looks as if it was a lost corner of Ireland. The store and the hotel that were both
built in 1870 are there. Another store that was built in 1907 still serves the public.
When the first church was destroyed by fire, St Paul the Hermit became the new church in
1872. |
Shawville
Walking Tours
The Town Hall
The Museum of the Pontiac
Portage-du-Fort
Bristol
Ladysmith
Cushing Lodge
Otter Lake
Campbell's Bay
Front Street
The Court-house
Campbell's Lake
Bryson and the Grand Calumet
Island
The Panoramic View of the
Litchfield Rest Areas
Vinton
Fort Coulonge
The Stone Houses
The Marchand Covered Bridge
The Bryson House
The Coulonge Falls
Waltham
Hydro-Electric
Station
Chapeau
Nicabeau
Fort William
Tourist Information Booth
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Shawville
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Bristol wharf
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Bryson House
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Marchand Covered Bridge
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Coulonge Falls
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Fort William Beach
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Spruceholme
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Belle Terre Garden
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Court-house
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Scenery from the Grande Calumet Island
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St Alponse of Liguori
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Autumn
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The Beach
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